Chronic Ear Infections/Skin Problems?

Posted in Pet Health News and Alerts by Gina
February 20th, 2010

In all of my years’ experience in pet sitting, the most common health problem I’ve seen in dogs especially, is itchy skin and ear infections. I am a firm believer that a good diet will greatly reduce these and other health issues for your pets. What I mean by a GOOD diet, is one that doesn’t come from a bag or a can necessarily, but that’s another topic for another post. Visit your local Pet Nutrition Center, or small pet shop and ask about high quality pet food, especially raw food, which I recommend to almost every pet owner.
Anyway, on to the subject at hand. Below is an article from Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM. He has great insight into how to treat our own pets at home, and in a more natural way. The only point I’d suggest differently is instead of flax seeds/oil, use salmon oil. I think it’s healthier for dogs, especially. Enjoy,
Gina
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The MOST common reason that I see pet’s is
for skin disorders.

Chronic Itching, scratching and paw licking

Ear infections that recur

Yeast infections

Allergies- airborne and food

Parasites- especially fleas and lice.

———————————–
What can you do?
———————————–

Well here are some remedies that I advise
for the allergic dog or cat:

TO THE BATH. An oatmeal shampoo with cool water will ease the
itchiest skin. Leave the shampoo on for 10 minutes then rinse
well. With the most severe allergies, bathe your pet twice weekly.

SOOTHE IT TOPICALLY. Calendula ointment is a herbal medication
that has been successfully used to relieve the itch. Apply a thin
coat twice daily to affected areas.

THE SUPPLEMENT CONNECTION. Fatty Acid supplements are very helpful
in decreasing the level of inflammation. Omega 3 fatty acids are
most important. A great, inexpensive source is ground flax seeds;
I give 1 tsp per cup of dog food. Cats are unable to metabolize
flax, so I only recommend the liquid fish oil supplement for them.
Other sources include primrose oil and specific veterinary supplements.

ANTIOXIDANTS. Vitamin E and Vitamin C may help: the Vitamin E dose
is 100 IU per 10 lbs of body weight once daily; the Vitamin C dose
is 100 mg per 10 lbs of body weight once daily.

ANTIHISTAMINES. Benadryl is the most commonly used antihistamine.
It is give at a dose of 1 mg per pound of body weight, 2-3 times a
day. Cats respond well to Chlortripolon at 2 mg, 2-3 times a day.
It is best to consult your veterinarian before using these
medications. It often takes 14 days of using these to see if they
are helping.

BIOFLAVONOIDS. These are compounds found in the pigment of fruits
and vegetables. One found in apples, QUERCETIN, has been shown to
be effective in reducing itchiness in people: the dose is 25 mg/10
lbs of body weight twice daily.

From: Dr Andrew Jones
Author: Veterinary Secrets Revealed
Website: http://www.theonlinevet.com

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Merrick Dog Treat Recall

Posted in Pet Health News and Alerts by Gina
February 7th, 2010

FDA NEWS RELEASE

For Immediate Release: January 14, 2010
Consumer Inquiries: 888-INFO-FDA

FDA Health Alert for Merrick Beef Filet Squares Dog Treats Packaged and Distributed by Merrick Pet Care
Products may be contaminated with Salmonella

The U. S. Food and Drug Administration is warning consumers not to use Merrick Beef Filet Squares for dogs distributed by Merrick Pet Care with a package date of “Best By 111911” because the product may be contaminated with Salmonella.

The product was distributed nationwide through retail stores and Internet sales.

Although no illnesses associated with these products have been reported, the FDA is advising consumers in possession of these products not to handle or feed them to their pets.

In December 2009, the FDA conducted routine testing of Merrick Beef Filet Squares and detected a positive finding for Salmonella. A follow-up inspection found deficiencies in the packaging and manufacturing processes.

Salmonella can affect both humans and animals. People handling dry pet treats can become infected with Salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after having contact with the treats or any surfaces exposed to these products. Consumers should dispose of these products in a safe manner by securing them in a covered trash receptacle.

Healthy people infected with Salmonella may experience some or all of the following symptoms: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, abdominal cramping and fever. Although rare, Salmonella can result in more serious ailments including arterial infections, endocarditis (inflammation of the lining of the heart), arthritis, muscle pain, eye irritation, and urinary tract symptoms. Consumers exhibiting these signs after having contact with this product should contact their health care provider immediately.

Pets with Salmonella infections may become lethargic and have diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Some pets may experience only a decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. Infected, but otherwise healthy pets can be carriers and infect other animals or humans. If your pet has consumed any of the affected product or is experiencing any of these symptoms, contact your veterinarian immediately.

The affected Merrick Beef Filet Squares were packaged in a 10-ounce green, red and tan re-sealable plastic bag. The “best by” date is imprinted on the top portion of the bag, which is torn off when the bag is opened. The FDA recommends that consumers who are unable to determine the “best by” date discontinue use of the product.

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Dog Training & Behavior Workshop

Posted in Dog Training & Behavior, General Announcements, Local Events by Gina
January 29th, 2010

I’m organizing the next workshop with our dog trainer, Peni Fitzpatrick. Here are the details, hope you can make it!:

Solve your dog’s behavioral problems in one weekend!

Join Peni Fitzpatrick* in a rare weekend workshop in Vista!
You’ll learn a reliable recall, how to stop aggressive behavior, canine body language, pack mentality, passing other dogs calmly, dog tricks, street smarts, everyday fun & much more! Bring your dog and his problems…Peni will bring solutions!

When: Sat., 3/20 10:00 – 4:00 and Sun., 3/21 10:00 – 4:00
Where: Vista, CA 92084 (address to be supplied upon registration)
How much: $150 for the 2 day workshop OR audit (observation, without your dog) 2 days: $75

***It is highly recommended that you bring your dog and participate both days, as Peni will be teaching you to work with your dog & going over different information each day.

Bring your own lunch if you like, or there are a couple restaurants close by. Bring plenty of water & a crate for your dog. There will be downtime for your dog, while Peni leads a theory discussion and question/answer period. Bring your most burning questions!

For more info & to reserve a spot, contact Peni Fitzpatrick at www.dogcompany.ca

Pay by cash only at workshop

Please RSVP by March 12, 2009

*Peni Fitzpatrick is a Dog Trainer and Animal Behaviorist well known across Canada and the United States. The Dog Company & Island Dog Sports are the two companies that Peni runs for all people with and without disabilities. She is a believer in teaching a bond of “TRUST and RESPECT”

Peni can turn any problem dog into a happy and obedient one, an accomplishment that some call Magic! Her infectious sense of humour, great personality and love of animals and their response to her will amaze you. Her training techniques are fun, for both you and the dog. You will be laughing and feeling confident within minutes and your dog will pick up on your positive attitude.

Peni wants to share her expertise with you, so you can have the same results!

Peni writes for newspapers & magazines, as a well respected Dog expert. Peni appears regularly in magazines, on radio and television and is an advocate for dog Sports for all dogs and all people. Seminars are done for Clubs or groups all across the country.

-Organized by Gina McGrath, Claws and Paws Pet Sitting Service-

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Holiday warnings for your pets

Posted in General Announcements by Gina
December 23rd, 2009

This time of year is a busy time for most of us, especially pet sitters, but it behooves all of us to keep an eye out for items that our pets shouldn’t get into. Here’s an article from dog trainer Peni Fitzpatrick explaining some of the common items around the house that can be dangerous to our pets:

Here are some tips for over the Holiday Season;

Plants & Greenery : Holly, Ivy, Mistletoe & Poinsettia’s are toxic. Keep them out of reach or out of the house.

Tinsel : Some pets find tinsel very appealing. If eaten the thin pieces can cause the intestines to bunch up and can even cut through the intestinal wall. Both can be fatal.

Your Tree; Make your tree safer by putting the heavier ornaments close to the floor with your precious heirlooms out of reach of curious noses & mouths & wagging tails. Keep smaller knickknacks on shelves that the pets cat reach.

Shock Proof ; Light stand, & Light strands, loose wires and electric cords are a serious problem to your pets. Some dogs & cats love to chew cords ( we have all seen Lampoons Christmas) When your not home unplug everything…all in all just keep a close eye on your electrical around the pets.

Traveling: make sure you have current ID, or microchip with up to date info. If crossing country borders you will need proof of rabies & vaccination as well.

Protection from the cold.: For those of you in colder climates who will deal in snow, you have to deal with the salt on streets & sidewalks. This salt is great for melting snow & ice but irritates dogs feet. After a walk, gently sponge off your dogs feet with warm water & dry. Also for some dogs their coat is not enough to keep out the cold. You might want to invest in a nice warm jacket. There as many on the market go in & try them on.

Deadly Drink: Antifreeze belongs in the car NOT in your dog. It only takes less than a teaspoon to be fatal. (One lap of a tongue) some say it tastes sweet like peppermint probably why the dogs love it. Watch for it on your walks & in your garage. Take water with you even in the winter so you can give your dog a drink.

Noise

This probably is more about New Years Eve (my birthday) Fireworks, horns, bells & whistles & all the other noise makers (some people that sing) can be extremely frightening to our pets with their sensitive ears. Make sure your pets are safe in your house their crates etc away from the noise, you don’t want them escaping the house to the back or front yard & beyond.

woof……Peni ^..^~!

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Safe Medications for your Dog

Posted in Pet Health News and Alerts by Gina
November 26th, 2009

Below is another article from Peni Fitzpatrick, a follow-up to the first aid kit article. It’s imperative to know which meds can be given to our dogs, and which ones harm them. Although she doesn’t recommend Aspirin, I have been told by veterinarians that Buffered Aspririn (Bufferin) is OK, as it won’t upset the stomach. I have given it to my dogs for minor aches ocasionally.

Cheers everyone:

After sending out the first aid kit info, I have been asked what human medicines are O.K. for dogs. I love it when you all get into the want to keep learning groove. I have addressed the ones I was asked about. My goal is to empower you to know more about how you can help your dog. Knowledge makes you powerful! I want you to feel good about your choices & what you can do if you don’t have medical help close by.

There is a world of Internet info out there not always reliable.

However I have found a good resource in Dr. Sherry Weaver, she is based in Woodstock, Georgia she writes for Cesar Millan’s website. You can ask her advice by visiting www.cesarmillaninc.com/askthevet.

Safe Human medications for dogs

Allergic reactions
Benadryl (diphenhydramine) is an antihistamine that’s used to treat everything from bee stings to allergic reactions. It’s Mild medication and doesn’t work for severe reactions, but it is safe for dogs, and is inexpensive. Just as it does with humans, Benadryl can cause some mild sedation in dogs although in rare cases it can cause excitability.

Other antihistamines, such as chlorpheniramine, are also cheap and safe. Antihistamines, like Claritin & Zyrtec, are fine for dogs, too, and while a bit more expensive, may even work better.

Stomach upsets and Ulcers
Pepcid and Zantac are commonly used antacids. They’re both very effective in dogs with upset stomach and Ulcers. Over long term, however they will eventually stop working, so you should either give your dog some time off from them, or change drugs periodically.

Car (Motion) sickness
Some dogs over come this and love the car rides. But some never do.

Dramamine is and excellent medication for preventing car sickness in dogs. It also causes sedation (sleepy) this might be a good thing if it is a long trip.

These next three creams should be in your first aid kit:

Cortisone Cream
Cortisone can be very effective on minor itchy area and red bumps caused by bug bites. Be sure to rub it in well and try to prevent your dog from licking it off (although a little licking is not a serious danger).

Neosporin (triple antibiotic cream)
Is one of the most underappreciated medications in the drugstore. It moisturizes wounds to help them heal faster while also preventing infection. It’s most important to remember to clean any wounds before applying Neosporin

Neosporin (eye)
This too is great for the start of conjunctivitis. I have found it id cleared up in two applications. Please have one in your kit labelled “dogs” & one labelled “Mine” for your use only.

Things you told me you have on hand and asked if it is O.K.

SAFE BUT

Pepto-Bismol
Acts as an anti-inflammatory for the stomach and intestines. Since one of the ingredients is a form of aspirin, it should never be given to dogs more than once or twice. If your dog has diarrhea that doesn’t clear up after two doses, stop giving Pepto and seek a vet’s advice. Basically, Pepto-Bismol can be effective for mild diarrhea and is relatively safe if used sparingly.

Kaopectate
Can also be used to treat diarrhea and is extremely safe. The problem: though it’s fine for mild cases, it doesn’t actually treat the diarrhea; it just bulks up the stool to give the appearance of normalcy.

NO WAY NEVER !

Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDS) are not made to be safe for dogs, and can be very dangerous.

But YES! Prescription anti-inflammatories manufactured specifically for dogs are usually cost-effective and are safer as well as more efficient.

Among the NSAIDS to stay away from are:

Tylenol (or anything containing the active ingredient acetaminophen)

Motrin (which contains ibuprofen). Both can cause damage to liver or kidneys, and also commonly cause stomach ulcers.

Aspirin is often taken by humans for it cardiac benefits. But since dogs don’t suffer the same cardiac problems as humans, there is no benefit to their taking it the relief is not enough to justify the stomach issues it often brings.

Stay calm & assertive

woof……Peni ^..^~!

“Focus on the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity, but in doing it.”

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First Aid Kit for Pets

Posted in General Announcements, Pet Health News and Alerts by Gina
November 23rd, 2009

If you have owned or handled dogs for any length of time, you know that accidents happen. It’s best to be prepared in an emergency. I keep a first aid kit in my house, in the emergency evacuation box (with all sorts of goodies for dogs & us), and 1 kit in the car at all times. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to use it for clients’ pets over the years. Items I use the most are the styptic to stop bleeding (I think liquid is best, the powder gets clumpy & useless over time), and antiseptic wipes/liquid. So many dogs rip their nails open, so liquid styptic is my friend. :) The following advice is a primer for those who want to save some cash & put together a first aid kit themselves. Otherwise, there are many pre-made kits on the market.

In an emergency, try to be as calm as possible & don’t panic. Your pet will feel your energy. Of course, after any emergency, get the pet safely & calmly to the vet asap. The following is an article from my dog trainer, Peni Fitzpatrick:

FIRST AID CHECKLIST FOR PETS

Please make sure you are familiar with how to use and handle all the items in your first aid kit. On the spot in an emerg. is no place to start to practice or learn. You want to be sure and confident in what you are doing so your mind is as clear as possible in the emerg.

First aid kits for dogs are just the same as for people…a few differences depends on the size of your dog. I add the extra’s to my own kit…with the help of my Vet. So here is what I have in mine:

1. Phone # for your vet or animal emerg. in the area’s you will be traveling.

2. Phone # for Local poison control centre the national one is 888-426-4432 or www.aspca.org. Please note there is a consultation fee charged.

3. A first Aid manual or chart for quick reference. (ask your vet)

4. Sterile bandaging material, such as gauze bandages. (1" roll) and non-stick dressing pads 2" squares are a good size.

5. Non-sting antiseptic swabs or spray (some dogs don’t like the sound of the spray can). I have seen it in the pump style too.

6. Water soluble lubricating jelly

7. Styptic pencil

8. Adhesive tape

9. Pencil or stick for a tourniquet.

10. Material for a muzzle, i.e. an old neck tie or a old nylon stocking.

11. Roll cotton

12. Hydrocortisone cream

13. Tweezers

14. Thermometer (rectal or ear). Generally rectal are more reliable, unless you are very experienced with the infrared ear thermometer.

15. Blunt-ended scissors

16.Syringes, without needles attached fir administering medications (3ml-10ml)

17. Plastic eyedropper for administering small doses of medications.

18. Towels, blankets and material for a stretcher. I have used the blanket and dragged… only wishing I had put two (3ft or 4 ft) in length and only 1" or 2" diameter, pieces of plastic pvc (like the jumps for our agility) into our Van space.

MEDICATIONS:

19. Hydrogen peroxide (3%) for wound care and to induce .vomiting only use when directly advised by vet. Syrup of ipecac can also be used to induce vomiting always check with Vet about inducing vomiting.

20 Pepto-Bismol for diarrhea.

21. Broad-spectrum antibacterial eye and skin ointments.

22. Antihistamine tablets/liquid. It is a good idea to contact your veterinarian ahead of time to determine the dose and type most suited for your pet.

woof…"Hana" "Switch, "Betty" ^..^~~!

www.dogcompany.ca

www.islanddogsports.ca

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Dog training by Peni Fitzpatrick

Posted in Dog Training & Behavior by Gina
November 17th, 2009

Every dog, no matter how well-behaved, could use an occasional refresher/training session. For the past few months, I’ve been working with Peni Fitzpatrick, a dog trainer in Canada. She travels all over CAN & USA teaching people the basics of canine behavior, calm submissive dogs and calm assertive owners. She has done wonders with our *formerly* dog-aggressive Dalmatian. I have seen her reform the most fearful of dogs. I recommend her so highly, I even helped plan her recent workshop in San Diego. She will be back in the spring, so I’ll post more details soon. From time to time, I will share her tips with you, such as this one:

Building a bond of trust & respect is what it is all about.

Most learning takes place unintentionally, but some is planned.

Broadly, learning falls into two categories:

  • KNOWLEDGE – What to do
  • KNOW-HOW – How to do it

Remember… I once mentioned the Japanese have a saying “I hear I forget, I see, I remember I do I understand.”

Let’s look at what you need to be a good teacher & your dogs needs to be a good student.

You need to learn The four “R’s”……. knowing & using these FOUR elements will contribute to good teaching & learning skills:

  • RESILIENCE, KEEP ON TRYING
  • RESOURCEFULNESS, Knowing where to turn when you don’t know what to Do !
  • REFLECTION, Stop and take Stock
  • REPETITION Expecting the same proper behaviour from you both every time and doing something about it.

Being inter active & keeping the focus, means you need to keep him interested in YOU! Your dog learns quickly that safety is being with you Keep in mind the leash is always on so you can stop him and refocus his energy onto you and what you want. That means you are upbeat, happy and are worthy of being looked up to and followed. If you just hold him back at the end of your leash & say NO….your not getting the message to him in the right way. “You always want to be the game”. Never go to the park or on a walk then turn your dog loose to play with someone else or other dogs & your left out. When you do that you give up all your power & leadership. How can your dog look up to you when you do that? Just saying or screaming your dogs name…goes no where as you know.

You want: your dog to listen ,obey, trust & respect you so you have a great buddy to do cool stuff with.

Dogs need: YOU TO BE always calm & assertive mean what you say & say what you mean & to know & use the four R’s be fair and show them just what it is you want them to learn; example Recall: get my attention, “Bernard” ! give me a job, ”Here to me” AS HE TURNS OR EVEN LOOKS IN YOUR DIRECTION lots of appropriate verbal praise (no food) “that’s it right here, good boy ! BRAVO !” he gets to you lots of hands on loving up….must wait for you to “release” him. Obedience should be interactive & fun, done everywhere and anywhere you go! Obedience is part of the walk in the park on the trail or downtown street. You want to be able to take your dog everywhere you go, to the bank, sitting having coffee with friends in an outside cafe etc. This way you do not ever teach your dog to think there is any situation that they don’t listen & obey. When Bernard gets “focused” on a squirrel you need to turn away from the distraction have the frisbee or ball and regain his focus on you! ….show him your more fun than chasing “Killing” the squirrel. When your at any park…your dog still drags his leash…that is how you can teach him not to play keep away or catch me if you can & how to come when he is called.

Your dog can play & socialize with other dogs while still remembering your still leader of him and it is all about what you want by you being interactive being out there & giving him things to do with you. Sure have a bit of a chat with others but don’t let your focus (eyes & mind) leave the reason your there (YOUR DOG). Get out there & mix it up with the dogs, your dog will be less likely to look at you as his property too. Learning how to call him “out of play” with other dogs & getting the game focused on you. Teaching your dog a solid “down” using it appropriately (never making him down when it is not safe around dogs who are not trustworthy (aggressive etc) if you do that he can not trust you to make safe choices. As you saw yesterday I always am part of the games….I can step in anytime and call my dogs off or to me. I never let “other peoples dog issues” interfere with the on going well trained behaviour of my own dogs. There are no excuses for bad dog behaviours just owners who don’t or won’t do anything about it…which really makes it their issues. The dog community is very well informed group and I have learned over the past 50 years…that people live vicariously through their dogs bad behaviours. Last but not least….choose people who have to same goals & mind set as you. those are the dog people you want to hang out with.

woof…Peni “Hana” “Switch” & ”Betty” ^..^~!

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Urinary Tract problems in cats

Posted in Pet Health News and Alerts by Gina
May 30th, 2009

Recently I was caring for a clients’ cats. The client told me the male has been having issues with his urinary tract. I was told he’s been peeing a lot more than usual. So when I started taking care of him, I also noticed he was peeing more, and eager to use the litter box as soon as I was done cleaning it. He was also jumping in the shower while I was cleaning the box, which is unusual for him. Fortunately he didn’t pee there! But he was peeing smaller amounts, more often in the box. When the client came home and called me to check in, I told him all the symptoms I noticed. It was possible his cat had Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD). I advised him to get the cat to the vet & on medicine asap, and to be especially observant to see if the cat was squatting without peeing. Urinary blockages (made up of crystals, bladder stones or mucous blocking the urethra) are a common complication of FLUTD in male cats, and can be life-threatening if left untreated. A cat can in fact, become very sick in 24 hours from the toxins being pent up if there is a urinary blockage. If not treated promptly (within 3-6 days), the cat can even die.

According to Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM, Urinary Infections and Crystals are “often caused by consumption of a dry, high carbohydrate diet. The classic example is the corn based dry cat food that produces a high urinary ph and concentrated urine. These are the two biggest risk factors for FLUTD (Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease)”.

So please, be mindful of what your cat does in the litter box. The litter box  activity (or non-activity) can be very revealing of your furry friends’ health! A good website for more info on this topic is:

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_urinary_blockage.html

-Gina

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Bowling for the Animals

Posted in Local Events by Gina
April 19th, 2009

For those who have known me a few years, you have undoubtedly heard of my favorite fundraising event, Bowling for the Animals. It’s a fun day of bowling to help raise money for SNAP (Spay Neuter Action Project) and Feral Cat Coalition. Also, bowlers get to nosh on a great vegan buffet, and try to win awesome raffle prizes. Great “swag” for top bowlers is given away at the end of the day too. It’s great family fun, and a good cause for the animals. I hope to see you there, I’m already practicing my swing. Although, no practice runs at the alley for me, as I’ve found I bowl better when I’m rusty. :)

Join us at Vista Entertainment Center (435 West Vista Way
Vista CA 92083) at noon on Sunday, 4/26, but make sure you preregister to bowl. You can do that, and/or sponsor a bowler online at www.bowlingfortheanimals.org.   Or contact me to sponsor me! Thanks, I hope to see you there.

-Gina

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Pet Shop Pups

Posted in General Announcements by Gina
March 26th, 2009

I was at the Carlsbad mall the other day and wandered into California Pets. California Pets is a chain of pet shops selling dogs, rabbits, guinea pigs, small reptiles and birds. I was appalled by the conditions that these poor puppy mill puppies had to endure. Small, hot, stinky cubicles with puppies as old as nine months!!! It was so sad to see these poor puppies living like this. Its bad enough that they were born in puppy mill conditions and taken away from their mothers to early, only to go live in a pet store. Every day of their life spent in a glass box having hundreds of people looking at them wondering “how come they don’t pick me and take me home?”

I just wanted to vent about this situation and make people aware. Pet Shops that sell live animals should be a thing of the past. They help puppy mills stay in business. Please do your part and tell all of your friends and relatives to adopt, rescue or to use a reputable breeder when getting a new pet.

Thank you. Bye for now,
Michelle

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